KARL LAGERFELD HAS SOME HAS CALLED HAUTE COUTURE "THE REALITY OF DREAM" AND THE BRIGHTEST SELF-EXPRESSION OF DESIGNERS FREE OF COMMERCE. THE PAST WEEK OF THE HIGH FASHION WAS NOT AN EXCEPTION. Text: Dariga Masenova
Chanel
This year, the Grand Palais turned into the huge Chanel Terrarium, with lush vegetation and 300 flowers made from paper and wood. The highlight of the program was a wedding dress, on which 15 people worked for more than a month and which experts recognized as a real aesthetic holiday of handmade flowers and feathers. By the way, the fact that the House has more than 1000 anonymous customers who buy haute couture dresses makes the collection even more ephemeral. Judging by the emphasis on daytime looks, Chanel’s audience is much younger.
Atelier versace
Atelier Versace presented a very different fashion. The show of the Italian House was more concise, as were the images he created. They were not complicated by puzzle concepts, but they made a vivid impression. Long, "streamlined" dresses, fitting a figure, expressive decollete, open shoulders and hips. The key to evaluating this show is rich colors and the very cuts, which, according to Donatella Versace, are “created without a single straight line”.
Buchra jarrar
If for some designers haute couture is a way to tame their exuberant imagination, then the designer Buchra Jarrar has undoubtedly achieved perfection in this. At her show, she combined the incongruous, using traditionally expensive materials for the collection, processed in a special technique with vinyl - completely new, unusual textures were obtained.
Armani prive
Giorgio Armani was also inspired by the green garden, but the emphasis was on the flora of the Far East. Elegant feminine silhouettes - nothing more! - as if floating on a podium, on both sides of which slender bamboo trees towered. The texture of nude color materials, which flickered a little, emphasized the lightness of the collection. The images of the Armani Prive models were adorned with neatly arranged horse tails and oversize accessories.
Valentino
Another show, completely saturated with lofty feelings, was the show by Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Curie, who created an amazing couture collection for Valentino. This time, the Italian duet was inspired by the work of the artist Marc Chagall - the author of gentle, dreamy canvases. Models resembled beautiful Russian princesses floating on the catwalk in long vests trimmed with fur and decorated with embroidery, shirt dresses and elegant sundresses.
Victor & Rolf
The main motive of the haute couture collections from the Danish duo Victor & Rolf was nature. Landscapes of Van Gogh in floral prints were projected onto the white background of doll mini-dresses. Volumetric A-silhouettes completed straw hats. The graphic flowers in the Van Gogh Girls collection right on the catwalk turned into real 3D plants, “coming to life” on the shoulders of models and becoming one with huge headdresses. The fabrics were specially treated with wax by the Danish company VLISCO.
Christian dior
The show of the Belgian master Raf Simons for Christian Dior turned out to be even more futuristic, fresh, unlike anything. Accurate graphics, layers of paytok, lace and tulle were complicated by contrasting color schemes and bright ankle boots. Seasoned the effect of the musical series "fashion chameleon" by David Bowie. Futurism and psychedelia interspersed with the style of the 50s, 60s and 70s - this is the cocktail that Simons presented for Dior fans.
Maison margiela
The main event of 2015 in the fashion world was the return of the controversial, but insanely talented designer John Galliano. His debut collection for Maison Margiela House began with a #MargielaMonday promotion on social networks, and ended with an interesting symbiosis of Galyan glamor and trash with a hint of Margiela's austere Belgian deconstructivism.
Giambattista valli
The images of the princesses were also skillfully created by the couturier Giambattista Valli for the army of fans waiting from him from season to season for “flowers and flashes of color”. However, this time, the inspiration for Wally was the Coco Chanel style - an invariable combination of black and white, as well as miniature black bows with voila, which Mademoiselle herself loved. In addition to this, Valley used an unusual fit for himself: a free waist line and fluffy skirts of marshmallow color.
Elie saab
However, Lebanese couturier Elie Saab became the king of intangible, sky-air and sophisticated evening dresses. He dedicated the collection to his mother, his native Beirut and his nature. Saab is one of the few designers who, despite the fashion for androgyny, continue to sing female beauty.
The catwalk of the models resembled spring flowering and referred to nature. High Fashion Week took viewers to the world on the verge of fantasy and generally accepted norms. The most striking shows - the Wangogian landscapes by Victor & Rolf, an evening in the Chanel garden, bamboo stems on the flickering Armani Prive robes, a riot of Dior concepts and again Galliano - left a special aftertaste. Let's see if natural motives are commercially successful.
