A wrist watch ... What does it mean for a modern person? What should they be? Are they needed? Ivan Arp, president of the watch company Romain Jerome, believes that in our time the watch has lost its applied sense, but their creation is worth it to go down to the ocean floor and climb into space .... We talk with Ivan about the complex mechanisms, unique finds and legends of Romain Jerome, aboard a snow-white beautiful yacht moored in the Dubai International Maritime Club.
Ivan, please tell me why you decided to go in for watchmaking, and what distinguishes the Romain Jerome brand from the rest?
Do you know how many watches are produced in the world today? Only Swiss watch brands, there are more than 600! And all of them are proud of their traditions, the canons of true Swiss watchmaking. Many of them are trying to use new materials - titanium, rubber, synthetics and so on. For many years I worked in various watch companies, was the director of Baume & Mercier, and in recent years, before Romain Jerome, I was the CEO of Hublot. And when I decided to make my own watch, I realized that simply new material will not help my watch become recognizable in such a dense and competitive market as a watch. And I decided that something needs to be done to prove the running of the passing time.
I thought that you should try to use art in your watch, although usually art is considered an enemy of watchmaking. And I said to myself: "My brand is new, and it does not have its own history, so all I can do is use the history of all mankind, which has a respectable age." As soon as this idea was born, I realized that I could create and embody many stories in my watch. But the first of them should be simply luxurious and unique. And the material that we will use should be not only luxurious, but also rare. That is, so that no one but us could receive it. So the concept of “DNA of Famous Legends” was born. The name of my first watch was also not chosen by chance, as it was known to the whole world. The name "Titanic" is known to absolutely everyone. And this is a luxury that cannot be obtained just like that.
How did you manage to purchase steel from a sunken ship to produce your first watch collection?
Once again, in order to do something truly unique, you need to have a story behind it. It is like feelings. If they live in you, you don’t talk about them right and left, you worry about them, and they cannot be expressed in any digital or monetary equivalent. Now, if you ask your husband how much he loves you, and get back - at all 99.2%, then for sure, you will want to give him a slap in the face. But 99.2% is a very large percentage, isn’t it? If he tells you: “Very strong!” Then you will be happy. The same story is with my watch. I knew that it was impossible to get steel from the sunken Titanic, but I acquired it in a completely official way. I have a certificate of authenticity for the rusted edging and each of the oxidized fragments of the Titinic DNA watch, issued by the Harland & Wolff shipyard from Belfast, where this giant legendary ship was built a century ago. The origin of the steel was identified by both divers and Swiss lawyers, so the buyer receives all the certificates and documents by purchasing a watch from the Titanic DNA collection. How it all worked out is impossible to tell, and it is not necessary, in my opinion. In fact, it was just an adventure, akin to James Bond. The only thing I will say is that I have amazing connections, and I do not want to give my competitors the opportunity to learn about the path I have traveled.
Which parts of the Titanic DNA watch series are made of genuine Titanic steel?
Here, on the bezel of the watch, there is steel from the Titanic, which was mined from a depth of 3840 meters and melted together with a modern stainless steel directly at the shipyard where the ship was built. The effect of rust and artificial aging was performed in a special way. Owners of watches should not be afraid of the breakdown of materials due to oxidation - Romain Jerome masters have developed a process for stabilizing rust, thanks to which internal mechanisms can be protected from any penetration of corrosion. A special paint based on pieces of coal from the engine room of the sunken liner was also developed for the dial. And the design of the arrows repeats in detail the Titanic anchors. We are currently working on the Titanic-2 collection. A phenomenal movement will be installed inside, the most complex of all possible Swiss watch movements. But the value of these watches is not measured only by the cost of materials, the complexity of the mechanism or Swiss quality. This watch is the only opportunity on Earth to become the owner of a real piece of history, and carry it on your wrist. "Titanic" is the greatest legend of the sea world. We make it possible to return this legend, at least in hours. But besides the clock, you can do something else to extend the life of the legend. ... Now I will show you.
Is this a watch too?
No, this is a pen in its shape resembling a periscope from the Titanic. In my opinion, such things harmoniously complement watch collections. The pen design is very simple. When you start to fill the pen with ink, you see their level through these "windows". The mechanism inside allows ink to run through the tubes and fall into the pen. The pipes, by the way, are also made of steel from the Titanic. It turns out that this pen is also part of the story.
Looking at all this, it seems to me that men throughout their lives remain in the soul of boys, and as adults, they try to surround themselves with those toys that they have not played enough in childhood ...
You are absolutely right. We all dreamed about adventures, ships and captains, and we continue to dream. Only now we have the opportunity to realize our childhood dreams. I’ll tell you more, I am absolutely convinced that today the watch has lost its applied value, because people do not have to have a watch to find out the time, they can look at the display of a mobile phone or on a computer monitor. Therefore, we - watchmakers, should be able to offer customers something else. People want to own some kind of symbol of time, a reward, a trophy, if you want. And they put some of their own values into these trophies, fill them with a different meaning. For example, if a person wears a TAG Heuer watch on his hand, he immediately associates with others with an athlete, although it can be very fat. But since this watch brand produces world-famous sports watches, its owner will be a priori considered an athlete. Therefore, the values inherent in our works are always different. In my watch - this is the history of mankind. And, I think it's just fantastic!
Your watch is for men, but do women wear it?
This is my problem - I know well what men need. I love women very much, but I don’t understand them at all. Therefore, we at Romain Jerome never release women's collections. But then we make the most unrealistic watches on Earth. Take a look at this model ...
This is a clock? And where is the time indicated here?
Nowhere. This is a double tourbillon. Fantastic exclusive gear. Now, when we are talking with you, it’s night in Switzerland. This tourbillon has night time. When morning comes, the hand will move here, and will remain at the mark of the "Sun" for the next twelve hours. This watch has only day or night. Everything. You don’t need anything else. And this is what I was talking about. You no longer need a clock to read the time. This is the first watch that does not show time, only part of the day. But this double tourbillon becomes part of your image, your life. We are returning humanity to the history of the Egyptian pharaohs, who 4000 years ago learned to recognize the time of day by the sundial. Again the story. And the concept of this watch, in my opinion, is simply fantastic.
All Romain Jerome watches are limited to a very small number of watches. Why?
It is true, we do not produce many hours. This model is released in a series of nine pieces. There is a model that is made in a single copy - from steel from the Titanic, with a vertical tourbillon and a connecting chain, like a bicycle. It makes no sense to make exclusive things massive. The feeling of their uniqueness is lost ...
Why are you reinventing the wheel again?
Probably to feel like a pioneer. We have a model of watches, released in a circulation of five copies, each of which is dedicated to one of the world's oceans. Here is a model with the Indian Ocean, you see - here is Dubai. There is a watch dedicated to the Arctic Ocean, blue, here Russia. Isn't that great?
Really cool! Since you mentioned Russia, tell me where and how did Russian buyers first get acquainted with the Romain Jerome brand, and how often do they buy your watch?
Today, the number of watches we produce is much lower than the demand for them. I first presented my collections in the Russian market in September 2008, and the result was amazing. I believe that my watch matches the tastes of Russian buyers.
And what is the difference between the tastes of Russian and other customers?
The difference is in the stunning and centuries-old history and culture of Russia. You know this better than me. Russia has one of the greatest stories in the development of civilization. Today it is very important not to forget the lessons of history. Forgetting the experience of the past, people make the same mistakes and have no future. That is the difference. If I show my watch to the Americans, the reaction will not be the same as that of the Russians. They will certainly like the watch, but there will be nothing more than loud enthusiasm. And the Russian will be able to feel the whole depth of the idea embedded in the watch. Few people in the world are capable of such feelings. That is why Russia is one of my favorite markets. They appreciate what I do, feel what I breathe. I have many friends there.
What about the Dubai market?
I like Dubai and my partners with whom I work here. This is a market with great potential, because it is new and open to any ideas. It is very interesting to work here. My business model is to create a limited series of watches, and in the Middle East market there are many wealthy people who want to touch world history with my help.
When the Titanic steel runs out, what will appear in your watch?
My next collection, which is almost ready, was made using real moon dust, mined in the craters of this satellite of the Earth, and delivered from the ISS. It is called “Moon Dust DNA”. And this is my new legend created by the masters of Romain Jerome.
How did you get into space?
This is another big secret, but the collection of watches, on the dials of which you can clearly see the lunar landscape, is already a reality. In March 2009, I represented her on the market, and, I believe, this will be another sensation. If I tell you that one of my great friends is the Russian pilot-cosmonaut Sergey Krikalev, who spent the longest time in the world than all the cosmonauts of the world, first at the Mir station, then to the ISS, what can you say?
I will say that for me this is amazing news. And after space where?
The Universe is huge, the Earth is a storehouse of human history. And they keep so many puzzles and secrets in themselves that I am provided with work for many years to come. I am driven by the desire to rediscover eternal values for myself and others. Therefore, new legends are yet to come.
Thanks Ivan, we look forward to the birth of your new legends.
